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Transporting and
welcoming your puppy home |
Things to do for your
puppy's homecoming:
Wherever
you’ve decided he’ll sleep, it’s important to designate his
own little are with;
-
his
bed, preferably made out of PVC (it’s easier to
clean and less dangerous should he want to teeth on it)
-
It
should be lined with comfortable, removable, washable,
synthetic bedding
- Two stainless steel bowls,
nearby (plastic ones are easily chewed up)
-
a few
toys (not the soft rubber ones which are easily ripped up and
swallowed) but hard rubber rings, tennis balls and thick plaited
ropes etc. |
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When
Travelling:
Take
with you;
-
a collar
-
an adjustable lead
-
a water bowl
-
a bottle of fresh water
- old
towels or a roll of kitchen paper should he be sick in the back of
the car
Travelling
on leaving the breeders can be quite traumatic for the pup. To
reassure him, have a passenger hold him on their knees
or put him next to you on a blanket smelling of his mum and litter.
If you’re travelling with children ask them to be calm and quiet
so he isn’t even more stressed. Talk to him to reassure him. |
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When
at home:-
First take him to where he’s allowed to relieve himself, (for
example in the corner of the garden) and praise him when he does.
- Let him explore his new home.
-
If
he hides, leave him until he comes out by himself
-
Put a blanket or towel in his bed that smells of his mum and the
litter;
- Feed
him and keep his water bowl filled
-
Give
him his toys
-
Avoid
any contact with other animals until the following day
-
Leave
him alone when he naps
-
Explain to your children that the puppy is not a toy
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FOOD |
Dry
food:
As
there are so many brands of dry food available on the market, it’s
best to take the advice of your breeder or vet, on what’s best for
the age and activity of your pet.
Make
sure you give him quality food
For
our dogs we use
A
Sample is included in the puppy kit we give you when you
leave with your puppy.
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The
cheaper brands are lower quality and you need larger portions to
take into account you dog’s activity and requirements. Feeding
bigger portions can lead to serious health consequences (skin,
digestive problems) or even interfere with his growth.
With
a higher quality brand you should be able to avoid these
problems. Your dog will digest and benefit from this type of food,
passing fewer and healthier stools. |
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Homemade Food:
If
you prefer making his food, use good quality ingredients but never
table scraps (they’re often too fatty and inadapted for
dog’s daily nutritional requirements)
Respect
the following portions;
-
50% white meat (chicken, turkey) or lean (beef, lamb) or fish
-
25% cereals (rice, wheat, oats or maize..)
-
25% carrots or green vegetables for added colour
It’s
Very Important to add a growth complement for your puppy |
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Deshydrated
Foods:
This
dry food is made differently and it’s coloured.
You need to add hot water with or hot water with
stock at least 30 minutes before feeding, to
allow for cooling. |
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Tins:
They should
not be used because they have an 80 % water content and are of
extremely poor nutritional value. |
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Forbidden
Foods:
-
table scaps (as we explained previously)
-
cakes
and biscuits
-
anything
with sugar and especially chocolate.
WHATEVER
YOU CHOOSE TO FEED YOUR DOG ITS VERY IMPORTANT TO KEEP HIS WATER
BOWL FILLED AT ALL TIMES
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TRAINING |
House training
your puppy:
This
should start as soon as possible. It’s very important to establish
a routine. Your puppy must associate the fact of going outdoors with
relieving himself. When he does so, praise him warmly, and give him
a dog biscuit as a reward. This way he’ll realise this behaviour
is approved.
To
help him, make sure you let him out when;
- he wakes up
-
after
each meal
- after
he’s had a drink
- after playtime
Important;
when
he messes indoors (it will be quite frequent at the beginning) only
tell him off if he does so in your presence, clean it up when he’s
out
of the room (use white vinegar which he won’t like the smell of to
wipe up)
Never
rub his nose in it-it will only traumatise him and he could try and
cover up his mistakes by eating his stools (Coprophagy) |
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Obediance:
Should
be done gently but firmly. It should be fun for a puppy to please
his owner. When you’re “working” with him, reward him with
pats and dog biscuits.
Never
spend more than a quarter of an hour each day.
Be
careful, puppy’s bones and joints are soft and fragile.
-
When
he’s small, carry him up and down the stairs
-
Never
pick him up by his front paws, pass your hand under his rear and the
other under his chest.
- Do not let children pick him up
-
Watch
out for slippery floors
-
Never
make him jump vertically, or over obstacles
-
Don’t
play rough games
-
Or take him on
too long walks
Swimming
is a great exercise but not until he’s fully innoculated, ask your
vet
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CARE |
Health
Care:
- Grooming
: once or twice a week; more frequently when he’s malting in
spring and autumn to get rid of dead fur. Check the health of his
skin and parasites (fleas, tics etc)
-
Shampoo : your dog only occasionally, as it will remove his
natural protective oils. Better to wash his fur with water only. If
he has parasites seek your vet’s advice for treatment.
- Ears Check them regularly
and if you notice any soreness, infection, strong smelling brown
wax, etc… see your vet.
- Paws : Check
there’s nothing stuck between his pads. There are products to
toughen up puppies’ paws, ask vet’s opinion.
-
Eyes: check
them regularly. Wipe away any deposits with a clean tissue or wipe.

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Inoculations:
On
leaving the breeders your puppy will have received his first round
of inoculations.
-
Canine distemper High
temperature, lung problems, diarrheic, eye, skin problems. This is
often a fatal disease.-
-
Infectious
canine hepatitis (Temperature
and hepatitis)
- Canine parvovirus:
(Gastroenteritis,
haemorrhaging, vomiting, dehydration, weight loss)
-
Canine
Parainfluenza
(severe cough “Kennel cough”)
You
will have to take him for two more inoculations –one month apart
after the first round so that your puppy is protected for the year.
Then an annual booster will be required |
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Worming:
Your
puppy would have been regularly wormed by the breeder (the dates are
in his health booklet) we recommend you worm your puppy once a month
until 6 months of age. And then twice a year.
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Female
dogs on eat:
Female
dogs come on heat twice a year all throughout their lives. They last
3 to 4 weeks. Be careful interested males don’t come too close
especially from the 9th day onwards when they are most likely to
conceive.
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